Animal, mineral or vegetable?
Churchkhela hanging by a string in shop windows and from roadside stands are everywhere. These colorful casings could be sausage, calcite or candles. It turns out that they are actually a threaded string of walnuts or hazelnuts dipped and coated in specially cooked grape juice that then dries to form a thick rubbery skin. Affectionately known as Georgian “Snickers Bar” because they can easily be packet in a pocket as a quick and easy snack that is filling and full of energy when out hiking in the lovely countryside all around Georgia. Often sold for less than $1 a piece.
Churchkhela – These colorful casings could be sausage, calcite or candles.
What smells so delicious going down the street?
Georgian bread often sold directly from bread bakeries or small shacks found in every neighborhood and village, this canoe shaped bread is baked in a round, wood-fired clay oven, although natural gas is sometimes used these days. The smell is so wonderful as you pass by that you will have to buy some and it is only pennies a loaf ($0.25 – $0.40 each). With only a piece of paper as a wrapper, you will be tempted to eat at least some of it while it is still hot out of the oven. Mm-mm, good!
Georgian bread, Mm-mm, good!
A wine well?
A queveri is basically a clay vessel lined with bees wax and buried in the ground filled with mashed up grapes and left to ferment wine the traditional way Georgians have been doing for thousands of years. Tours of wineries are available in Kakheti Region where most of the commercial wine producing takes place. Of course many Georgians take great pride in their homemade wine and are proud to show you where it is fermenting and better yet sample some if it is ready. Kakheti has many wineries offering tours such as wine plant Chelti.
Georgia wine, Kakheti Region where most of the commercial wine producing takes place
Who spilled the spaghetti?
There is a joke about how the Georgian alphabet was originally created. A monk tossed a plate of spaghetti into the air and the as the strands fell and lay on the table determined would be deemed the original shape of the letters that would become the Georgian alphabet. The real story of the origins of Georgian script have never been discovered. Thousands of years old, it is a unique alphabet and language that is only found in Georgia. Despite invasions, outside influences and occupations it has managed to survive in modern form to support the just as unique Georgian language. Georgian scripts are currently nominated for inclusion in the UNESCO list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Georgian alphabet
Are they going to sing or going hunting?
Georgian folk music is mainly harmonic male voices in deep tones and layered voice accompanied by ancient instruments will hypnotize you. From voice only chants to lively drumming, squeeze box whining and strings ringing, come here how Georgia sounds!
At the Crossroads of Cultures, Georgian folk music
Watch out!
Georgian dance involves spinning, leaping, feet flexing and rapid shuffling. Georgian dancers tell a story without words. Each region in Georgia has it’s own style and story to tell, some with fancy sword play. Georgia is the only culture that sometimes the male dancers are on their toes like ballerinas only they wear soft leather boots, some with long points.
Georgian dance involves spinning, leaping, feet flexing and rapid shuffling.
Buddy can you spare some change?
Stepping into the elevator in some older residential buildings constructed during soviet times you can sometimes see an ironic capitalistic component. A coin box that requires payment in order for the elevator to give you a lift. The equivalent of about two cents that is required seems more of an annoyance than it could possibly be a moneymaker. When you arrive home with a bundle of groceries in your arms and have run out of small coins, you have also run out of luck to catch a ride up in the elevator.
Georgian Coins
Am I supposed to do this too?
Pass by any church or even have it within sight from a distance and you will see some Georgian people make the sign of the cross out of respect. Even while driving a motorcycle! If walking by some will stop and turn to face the church and make the cross three times while bowing right there on a busy city sidewalk. Touching the or kissing the stone or an icon is also a local custom.
Georgia, Orthodox Church
How am I supposed to eat this thing?
Khinkali are delicious dumpling filled with meat and juice that requires a local lesson on how to properly eat one or maybe ten! Slurping the juice down without spilling it on the plate or yourself with elevate your rank from tourist to expert. Some restaurants make them better than others and even regional styles are common with varying thickness of dough and filling with greens mixed into the meat or not. It’s a Georgian staple on a traditional table and also enjoyed with friends with for a snack over wine or beer.
Khinkali are delicious dumpling filled with meat and juice.
What ever it’s called I must have one!
Adjaruli or Adjarian Khachapuri is a boat shaped bread filled with cheese with an egg placed on top before baking in a brick oven. It is served with a chuck of butter which you then stir into the egg and cheese filling. Start by breaking off the crispy bread and dipping into this mixture. So good and so filling too. Not all adjaruli are created equal. The best place to have this dish is in Batumi in the region of Adjara from which this style originated. There is a restaurant called Retro there that makes the best. They now have locations in Tbilisi as well.
Adjarian Khachapuri, A ship of many delicious things!
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